Perfume terminology
The perfumer is surrounded by a large number of odorous substances used by him as raw materials, it mixes, following his only inspiration or experience alone. The creator uses the odorants as a painter uses colors and draw the maximum effect, taking into account, however, the possible reactions in the composition and stability of the perfume. It is only to that extent that knowledge of chemistry can serve.
Here is a short glossary with some terms of common use in our business.
Fragrance terms detailed
Equipment — Process
Alembic
Equipment necessary for the extraction of essential oils. An alchemical still consisting of two vessels connected by a tube used for the distillation of liquids. The liquid in the cucurbit is heated or boiled; the vapor rises into the anbik, where it cools by contact with the walls and condenses, running down the spout into the receiver.
Chromatography
Scientific analysis system allowing the identification and control of perfumery elements.
Deterpenation
Process to remove the terpenic parts of certain essential oils.
Infusion
In perfumery, this operation means putting a solid in prolonged contact (sometimes several years) with a liquid to dissolve the soluble parts in the cold. Ex. infusion of musk, amber, civet, oak moss.
Raw material — Ingredients
Absolute
Absolute essences are obtained from concretes or resinoids. After dilution of the latter with ethyl alcohol (washes), the alcoholic solutions are most often frozen at around -15° C, filtered to eliminate the waxes, and finally concentrated by distillation under reduced pressure in order to eliminate the alcohol.
Aldehyde
Aldehydes are potent synthetic products that bring a prodigious power of diffusion to the compositions independently of their own smell. In perfumery, this concerns especially aliphatic aldehydes. The discovery of aldehydes gave creators a new palette. Their significant use is at the origin of the perfumes known as “Aldehydes”.
Concentrate
Designates the composition as it appears at the end of the preparation work (weighing the different products defined in the formula established by the perfumer-creator). The concentrates, depending on their destination, are then incorporated into alcohol: production of Extracts, Eau de Toilette, etc., or into any other beauty and toiletry product.
Concrete
Solid or semi-solid product obtained after extraction of the fragrant principles of certain plant raw materials such as Jasmine, Rose, Oak Moss, etc., by certain volatile solvents, mainly petroleum ester.
Essential Oil (or Essence)
Refers to the aromatic and volatile products extracted from plants, either by distillation or by expression.
Fixative
Improper term designating natural or synthetic fragrant products with high molecular weight intended to increase a composition's tenacity and prolong its olfactory perception over time.
Resinoid
Extract obtained from a dry raw material of plant origin by extraction using at least one solvent.
Fragrance structure
Base note
This is the note that will take the longest to evaporate (sometimes it will even take several days). Its main function is to fix the perfume in order to make it last as long as possible.
Basic composition
Elementary olfactory structure. It is a pre-composed element that makes it easier for the Creator to create a perfume.
Body
This may refer to a chemical product. In the sense of “body of a perfume”, is identified with a “heart note”.
Heart note
Expression used at the level of the creation laboratory to designate in the evolution of the perfume the phase which develops after the start or the top note and before the base note. It is the heart note that determines the theme of the perfume.
Linear
This refers to a perfumery composition presenting the same olfactory impression throughout its evaporation.
Note
This is the characteristic of the smell of raw materials or a composition. Ex.: floral note, chypre note, amber note.
Olfactory form
Pictorial expression of the architectural structure of a perfume.
Soliflore
A single floral note is desired; this is the beginning of modern perfumery. We copy nature, we try to reconstitute and stylize: a Rose, a Jasmine, a Violet, a Lilac, a Lily of the Valley…
Top Note
First olfactory impression perceived during the use of a perfumed alcoholic product due to the volatile nature of certain raw materials that compose it.
Technical description
Accord
This is the note that will take the longest to evaporate (sometimes it will even take several days). Its main function is to fix the perfume in order to make it last as long as possible.
Aromatic effect
Given by a combination of natural and synthetic products with a dominant camphor content.
Bouquet
Mixture of fragrant products without a dominant characteristic note.
Character
What distinguishes and personalizes a note, an accord, a perfume.
Composition
We call composition the finished mixture of a set of products; natural, synthetic, and bases. This name is used to designate the product obtained at the end of the creative work.
Dissonance
Rupture of harmony between scented notes.
Dominant
It is the most perceptible note from an olfactory point of view in a composition; E.g. a floral note with a dominant jasmine.
Heady
Said of an odor, a composition, a perfume that produces an overstimulation of the senses.
Juice
Trivial term used in perfumery to designate the alcoholic solution of a perfume concentrate.
Magnitude
Effect of olfactory volume combining an impression of power and richness.
Reinforce
It is to increase the power, or tenacity of one, several, or all of the elements of a composition.
Round (a composition)
A pictorial expression that tries to define the final work of the creator to give his composition greater harmony and a better balance of its components.
Sillage
Olfactory impression perceived in the atmosphere when a person has used a perfuming product.
Tonic
Term used for compositions likely to stimulate certain activities of the sense of smell or of the epidermis.
Trickle down
Adaptation of a perfume according to specific technical data aimed at creating a line.
Volume
Refers to the perfume that develops largely in the atmosphere.
